How To Care For Christmas Cactus Plants

Christmas cactus plants (​Schlumbergera​ x ​buckleyi​, formerly ​S. bridgesii​) are epiphytes that grow naturally in trees in Brazil. They absorb moisture and nutrients from debris that gets caught in the tree branches. Commonly grown as houseplants, they can also be grown outdoors in pots year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, as long as they are brought indoors if the weather gets too cold. Because the plants are frost-sensitive, their stems will be severely damaged if left outside during cold weather.

To root a Christmas cactus cutting, remove a portion of stem that has several segments. Be sure to plant the cutting in a mixture of moist peat and sandy soil. You'll want to press the bottom cactus segment into the soil about a quarter of an inch. Also, be sure not to overwater your newly rooted cactus to avoid rot. Once fully rooted, you can move your plant to a pot with loose, well-drained potting mix for a permanent home.

Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west-, or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.

Outdoor Christmas cacti can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day, or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cacti drop their flower buds.

Water your Christmas cactus when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.

After the plant forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers. When the plant stops flowering, it enters a resting phase during winter. During this time, water it sparingly.

Christmas cacti should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.

Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses.

Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. If the label indicates this mixing rate, use only 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water for Christmas cactus. Stop fertilizing your plant after late summer, because this will promote lush green growth and inhibit flowering.

Pinch off one segment from each segmented stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.

At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than 1/2 inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.

One common problem that occurs with Christmas cactus is that the plant won't bloom. Cutting back on how much you are watering the plant can encourage blooming. Make sure your soil is just slightly most. It's also possible that your plant is too hot or receiving too much sunlight. Consider moving it to a cooler part of the house.

As your Christmas cactus grows, the limbs will become heavy and could break. To avoid breakage, trim your plant regularly by clipping at joint segments. If a branch on your Christmas cactus does break, just clip it back at the joint to ensure healthy regrowth.

Root rot is the most prevalent Christmas cactus disease. Proper watering and well-drained potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses.

If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could possibly be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Sanitize the scissors with isopropyl alcohol before making each cut to prevent the spread of disease.

Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting mix and do not water it for one week after repotting.

Scale insects and mealybugs are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.

As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.

Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.